Logbook and Photos

11:37am Friday, January 2nd, 2004 - View of Mexico City's main square , the Centro Zocalo, from the Cathedral Metropolitana bell towers.

With our boat anchored safely in Zihuatanejo, we and our friends from s/v Atalanta catch the eight-hour overnight deluxe coach to Mexico City arriving around 6 am.   While the bus depot is bustling, it is still early and we set off walking in the pitch dark through the deserted garbage-strewn streets heading for the subway (El Metro). We catch the train to the Zocalo, officicially known here as the Plaza de la Constitucion, and emerge just at dawn onto the principal square in Mexico City. A huge Mexican flag gently flaps and the Cathedral Metropolitana looms behind. We are all feeling very excited to be here and slowly walk through the massive (but completely empty) square in awe as the sun creeps up.  Bags in hand, we begin the search for our hotel.

When the Aztecs established Tenochtitlán in the 12th century it was actually in the middle of a huge lake (Texcoco) in a big highland valley, the location where they saw the eagle perched on a cactus, eating a snake.  So, over time, they built up the land by creating a grid of stakes driven into the shallow water and planting willows and fast growing crops on floating rafts attached to the grid.  As the crops took root, they formed extremely fertile islands (chinampas) separated by an immense canal system for commerce and thus created the city of Tenochtitlán. Today, the remaining canals are popular with locals and tourists alike.

The biggest urban-situated park in all the Americas, this 1000-acre green expanse is loaded with world-class museums, hiking paths, a zoo, lakes, amusement parks, sports facilities and it also includes the Presidential residence seen in the background of this photo.   Today, our plan is to visit Mexico's most famous museum, the Museum of Anthropology.

The museum we are heading for is considered by many to be the best of its kind in the world.  It houses Mexico's most exquisite archaelological treasures within its 23 exhibition halls.  These trace the histories of many central American groups from first migrations to the Spanish Conquest.

This picture gives a good impression of how present day Mexico City ended up in its current location, atop a huge lake in a big highland valley (see the wall mural in the photo).  This was the scene - the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan - that the Spaniards found when they arrived in the 16th century.   This centerpiece of the Aztec empire was so prominent that after Hernán Cortéz conquered the Aztecs, he founded present day Mexico City in its midst and upon its ruins.  Unfortunately, the city has sunk over 10m since Cortez's day to the detriment of many buildings.  The largest Aztec temple in the model, the Templo Mayor, represents the same location from which the 3rd picture in this log was taken, that of Cortéz's Cathedral Metropolitana.

Just north of Mexico City is the famous archeologicl site of Teotihuacán (teh-oh-tee- wah-KAN), discovered by the Aztecs (!) in 1325.   The site had already been abandoned for over 500 years when they found it, overgrown and in ruins. Believing it to have been built by gods who sacrificied themselves here so that the sun would shine on the Aztec world, they adopted it as a ceremonial grounds.  The pyramids of the Moon and of the Sun rival those in Egypt.  Little is known of the society that once lived here for over 1000 years, disappearing as mysteriously as it had arisen.  It is probably of Olmec origin and has Mayan influences.

In some of the offset ruins at the Teotihuacan site, well preserved frescoes have been unearthed with a full range of colors.   Interesting to note is that all the stone structures in the entire complex were once covered in 1"-2" plaster and painted in this fashion. The paintings tell the story of the deities and the lives of the people and are essential in understanding these ancient civilisations. The red paint is from squashed burrowing bugs from nopal leaves.

Stretching the entire length of the Zocalo the government's Palacio Nacional is now the chief excutive center of the Republic of Mexico.  It also houses monumental murals painted by Diego Rivera.  This one, atop the grand staircase, is one of his most famous works, depicting the social history of Mexico.   It's facsinating to study in the context of such history: from the fight for independence from Spain in 1810 to the start of the Mexican revolution in 1910 (land ownership reform).  The murals tackle themes like the slave trade, class struggle, and the industrial revolution.

Later in the day, we catch El Metro out to the famous pilgrimage site of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron of Mexico and an icon of the nation's religious culture.  In the background is the old basilica, built at the end of the 17th century.   Note the tilt of the structure due to the ongoing settling (sinking) of Mexico City.  Inside, all sorts of scafolding and bracing keep it from collapsing.  A new modern-design basilica,  built in the 1970s, sits off the picture to the left.

Behind the basilica, up the side of a small hill surrounded by lush gardens sits a small chapel built on the Virgin Mary's request.  It goes like this...Mary first appeared as a vision on the hill to the indigenous peasant Juan Diego in December 1531.  Juan Diego was to inform the bishop in Mexico City of his vision and Her desire to have a chapel built, but when he did he was doubted.  So Juan returned 25 miles on foot to his home whereupon the Virgin appeared once again and instructed him to try the bishop again.  The bishop, somewhat annoyed, asked that Juan Diego not return again without proof of the apiration he spoke of.  And again the tired Juan returned to the hill.  This time, Mary instructed Juan to an area where he was to gather a great variety of roses (in December) and to bring them to the bishop as proof.  Juan gathered the roses in his cloak, and when he let them fall at the feet of the bishop, an image of the Virgin remained emblazoned on Diego's cloak.  When the bishop saw this he fell to his knees believing, and a shrine was soon built.  The monument in the picture depicts the bishop in front of Juan's cloak.

Inside the new basilica, the orginal cloak of Juan Diego is on display for all to see.  Scientists from all walks (including most recently NASA) have failed to explain how a fiber garment with a 20-year maximum lifespan, pigments available in that era, and  non-existant preservation and protection until recent years, has managed to survive in such dramatic condition after almost 500 years.

After a very busy day, we return to our hotel from the Basilica carrying a Rosco de Reye, a traditional round sweet bread eaten in celebration of the Kings' visit to the Christ child in Bethlehem.  Inside the bread are hidden little kings and any person who gets one has to cook and host a traditional Mexican meal including tomales on February 15th.

Mexico City has a neat children's museum with lots of hands-on activities for the boys.  Joel was ill yesterday, so we're making today as easy going as we can.  Later today, we'll catch the overnight express back to the boat in Zihuatanejo.

Well, that's our tour of Mexico City.  We have been really impressed with the sites and the hospitality.  We haven't perceived any threats to our personal security and all-in-all leave with a high level of satsifaction.  Once we get back on the boat, its time to move south again, to tackle the infamous Gulf of Tehuantapec with potentially dangerous winds and seas en route out of Mexcio and into El Salvador, Central America.