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Log 14 (September 11 - October 14, 2003)
Southbound Through the Western USA with Tioga II
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September 11, 2003 - Good-bye Canada After almost two months visiting
friends and family in Canada, it was time to head south again. Departing from
Victoria, BC, this time our route takes us south through
the State of Washington and out to and down the Oregon Coast. From there we visit
the California Redwoods, Napa wine country, Yosemite, Ancient Bristlecone Pines, Las
Vegas, and back to Tucson before returning to Mexico. |
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Sunday, September 14th - Seattle, Washington We are glad to arrive in
Seattle and have a terrific week-end with friends from s/v Chaika, a family we met last
year cruising. They are now back on the ground after their year cruising and were
kind enough to show us some of their favourite spots in Seattle. Here, we all marvel
at the colourful bouquets in the downtown market. |
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Thursday, September 18th - The forest just west of Portland, Oregon! Our
next stop takes us to Portland to visit another cruising family we met last year from the
s/v Swallow. They too are now back on the ground again and busy with the family
business. Pam and Peter manage forested lands west of Portland. The trees are
harvested in a sustainable manner that has earned the family awards for responsible timber
management. This day, Peter needed to locate and map a creek that cuts across their
property so we head out to help. After an enjoyable day foraging the river banks, we
have a tea in this little cabin on the property. |
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Saturday, September 20th - The Oregon Coast - Back to the Ocean! It
is great to be back at the ocean again and the sand dunes are a real treat! The drive down
the Oregon coast has given us a much different perspective than we experienced last year
as we sailed down it! It is very rugged. No wonder we stayed as far off it as
possible in our boat! As we watch and listen to the waves crashing on the rocks, we
joke about how your perspective can change dramatically depending upon where you are. Last
year it would have terrified us to be anywhere near this rocky, unforgiving coast. One
person's paradise is another's nightmare!! |
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Monday, September 22nd - Sand Rails for Sheila's birthday The sand dunes
along the Oregon coast were very unique, like none we had ever seen before. We hired
a driver and a sand rail and went for the ride of our lives. Our driver was great as
we would literally drive across vertical surfaces and then scream along at high speeds, up
one dune and down the next. He freaked us all out as we flew to the top of a 300'
high dune only to fake we could not quite make it and rolled us backwards the whole way
down as fast as we came up! Talk about your heart stopping ride. |
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Mexico had a number of hurricanes this year, including two that hit the popular
cruising location of La Paz near the south end of the the Baja Peninsula. The first,
Ignacio, (shown here over La Paz) put a couple of boats on the beach. The second,
Marty, devastated the area on September 22, including Marina de La Paz where 80 boats were
sunk or damaged and the marina destroyed. Marty continued up the Sea of Cortez and
hit near San Carlos, where our boat was stored for the hurricane season. Luckily,
our pre-departure preparations had been thorough and our boat only sustained minor
scratches. However, a number of other boats weren't so fortunate. Hurricanes are a
fact of life and we must plan our cruise accordingly such that we clear the hurricane
zones every July through October. |
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Friday, September 26th - Redwood National Park, California Redwood National
Park was created in 1968 to protect the world's tallest living trees, which at that time
were being feverishly harvested. There are 3 state parks within the national
park boundaries, which form a World Heritage Site. We spent time in the
Prairie Creek State Park and thoroughly enjoyed the fragrant hikes among these beauties.
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Friday, September 26th - A walk in the tall Redwoods Trying to take
pictures in a forest such as this does not do any justice whatsoever to the real grandeur
of ones' surroundings. These giant Coast Redwoods grow to nearly 370' tall, and can
live up to 2000 years, though average 500-700 years, grow to 22 feet in diameter and
encase themselves in bark that is 12" thick. The forest's mild, moist climate
assures abundant and diverse wildlife. Kids, check out this neat little Banana Slug the boys found. |
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Thursday, October 2nd - Welcome to Yosemite National Park Yosemite National
Park embraces a great track of scenic wildlands set aside in 1890 to preserve a portion of
the Sierra Nevada that stretches along California's eastern flank. We arrived just
before a weekend to just barely grab a campsite in this largely reservation-only park.
After our arrival, we rented bikes as it's easy to cover ground in the valley with
paved trails and little elevation changes. We managed to see much more than our legs
would have seen. We all really enjoyed being back on a bike and began to chat about the
bike we'd have once done our boating trip. |
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Yosemite Valley is a great example of a glacier-carved canyon. The dramatic
scale of its waterfalls, rounded domes, massive monoliths, and towering cliffs has
inspired painters, photographers, and millions of visitors (including us!). Shown
here, El Capitan's sheer walls attract experienced rock climbers from around the globe.
It takes about three days and nights to scale the vertical rock face. We strain to
see the climbers as small dots with our naked eye and then get closer looks through the
binoculars. With the binoculars, we can literally see the colorful canvas of the beds a
hiker would sleep in right there on the side of the mountain!! |
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Friday, October 3rd - Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias Also within Yosemite
park boundaries are a number of Giant Sequoias groves. The largest of all living
things, these towering trees have endured for thousands of years. Though not quite
as tall as Coast Redwoods, their bases are almost double at up to 40', and they live to
3200 years. |
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Saturday, October 4th - TIOGA Pass As we departed Yosemite, we just had to
take the scenic Tioga Road through Yosemite's high country, passing by sparkling lakes,
colorful meadows, sluffing domes, and lofty peaks. At this location, Tioga Pass, the
road crosses the Sierra Nevada's crest at 9945' and we begin a steep decent (6000') down a
road cut into sheer mountain faces toward the deserts of Nevada. After quite a few
cool nights, we begin to feel the desert heat rising up into the foothills.. |
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Sunday, October 5th - The Trees that Rewrote History - The Ancient Bristlecone
Pine Forest, CA. Standing as ancient sentinels high atop the White Mountains of
the Inyo National Forest at nearly 11,000 feet, the Great Basin Bristlecone Pines rank as the
oldest trees in the world and have immense scientific importance, as well as cultural
and scenic value. There are many trees in this area 4000 years of age and still
growing! Look up dedrochronology. From these trees, scientists have
assembled a continuous tree-ring chronology extending nearly 10,000 years that has been
instrumental in correctly calibrating faulty radio-carbon (C-14) dating. As a
result, some artifacts discovered in Europe have been redated to a 1000 years or more
older than previously thought hence historians have had to reinterpret the order of events
throughout the Mediterranean and European areas. |
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Monday, October 6th - And now for something completely unnatural...Las Vegas!
What a place. Bright neon lights shine through the night in Las Vegas
advertising casinos, hotels, clubs, bars, and other businesses. Las Vegas was a small town
until gangster Benjamin Bugsy Siegel changed the citys character forever
by constructing its first lavish hotel-casino in 1945, the Flamingo. With plenty to
offer non-gambling tourists and pleasant temperatures, we all had a great time. |
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Though kids aren't allowed to loiter in the hotel casinos, they can pass through.
Chris quickly demonstrated to the boys how these machines 'ate money'. He
would drop a coin in, push the spin button, grimace, drop-in another coin, push and
grimace, ... |
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Friday, October 10th - Lake Havasu City, Arizona A couple of hours south of
Vegas on Arizona's Colorado River we stopped for the night at Lake Havasu City, whose
claim-to-fame is their purchase of the London Bridge from the city of London in 1968 for
$2.5 million. It took another 3 years and $4.5 million to transport and rebuild the
bridge at this location.
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Saturday, October 11th - the Loop is Completed - Tucson AZ Again 104 days
later, we cross our outbound track and return to our initial US staging ground of Tucson.
Tucson is significant to us as it's the last major stop before re-entering Mexico
and we still have a number of items on our lists to purchase. This picture shows a
typical front-yard in Arizona, where home-owners here are as proud of their cacti as
others are of their flower-beds. |
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Tuesday, October 14th - Back in Mexico! Well, we made it back into Mexico,
RV loaded with supplies and boat parts for another cruising season. Our plan now is
to make a quick stop at the boat to drop some things off, then go inland for a couple of
weeks. In the next log, we visit some old colonial sights and take a train to Creel
in the heart of the Copper Canyon. |
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