Logbook and Photos

After a bit of a push to make Loreto Fest  in the first few days of May, we were finally able to slow the cruising pace back down and explore Mexico's Baja treasures in the company of the many great friends we have made cruising.  One of our first stops was the historic town of Loreto, the longest continually occupied town in Baja, having survived almost three centuries.  It is the site of the first mission church established by Father Junipero Serra in ~1743.  This beautiful hotel graced the town square.

Across from Loreto is Isla Carmen, an island we circumnavigated and enjoyed thoroughly for a number of  days.  On it was an old abandoned salt mining town and dried-out salt ponds, which we explored.   Learning to dive for and harvest "chocolatie" clams and the subsequent beach-side clam bakes are extremely memorable.

The "cruisers' shrine" is a tree and surrounding area on a beach in an anchorage called San Juanico.   For years cruisers have visited and left artistic momentous of their existences and trips, the earliest we could find dating back to 1988.  We brought along various craft items, paints, string, and pieces of wood and made our own creation.  It was a sign about 12"x16" displaying 'TIOGA, Chris, Sheila, Joel & Gerrit 5-03' and a Canadian flag in the upper corner along with Calgary. Joel added a miniature Tioga in the bottom corner complete with Canadian flag and Gerrit colored a shell for Boomerang, our dinghy.  We chose to hang our creation deep in the tree for maximum protection from the elements. 

This is a neat picture, if only to show you how we have to get around down here from time to time.  A group of us - three boats' worth in two dinghies - went out for supper at a restaurante in a nearby bay.  After supper, we all zoom home to our anchorage a bay or two south in the pitch dark. It was a nice evening out, with both water and air temperature around 85F.  And the conversation was hilarious!

How about this Mexican bug?  We were exploring the town of Mulege's sites when our friends' daughter, Rheanon, spotted this doozy.  It's not a cockroach, but we didn't quite get the name when we asked a local.

In the town of Mulege we visited a unique prison, now decommissioned, where many of the prisoners were allowed to leave the confines of their cells and go to work everyday in the town below.  At 6pm every evening a conch shell was blown to signal the inmates to return to the prison for the night.  When the prisoners were done their prison terms, many of them choose to settle in Mulege having already established lengthy roots!  This picture is of the inner section of the prison, where the hard-cases were kept.  Two solitary confinement cells are on the left.

The crews of s/v's Jovita, Atalanta and Tioga jump in Salvador the guide's van for a day tour to the site of cave paintings by the Cochimi Indians dated 3500 BC.  Along the way into the desert along washboard roads bound for the Trinidad Ranch, Salvador stops and shows us various plants, trees, and cacti of the desert, including how to identify them and their various purposes.  Some cacti hold the key to life - water -  while a single drip of sap from another tree could kill you in the refuge of its shade!  As is with all things in life, be careful of your choices!!

Today we planned to make it to the town of Santa Rosalia, not far away but with plenty to see and do along the way.  We had heard via VHF radio that morning that whales were in the area and as we traveled north paralleling Isla San Marcos, we found ourselves surrounded.  We are told that this one is probably a blue whale due to the amount of its body that shows out of the water when it surfaces.   We stop the boat and shut everything down and just drift in order to watch these amazing animals and listen to them blow when they surface.  At one point, this whale surfaces right next to Tioga (within 10m)!

We had heard of a neat spot to swim, and the day's plan was to stop and find it.  The spot  is unique as it is surrounded by cliffs except for a small entrance - a rock arch - that we have to take the dinghy through and under, ducking our heads to pass clearly!  Once inside, there is a nice rock beach to relax on.  Just outside the entrance, we see some locals jumping into the water from about 30 feet up! Chris and Michael decide to attempt it….brave or what?

Finally, we arrive at the little marina in Santa Rosalia.  And no sooner do we get our lines tied when we are boarded by the Mexican Navy doing a random inspection.  They were very friendly despite the size of the guns they were packing!  Apparently, only the sergeant gets ammunition as the Navy can't afford to give it out to the juniors (the kids).  Well, it was a busy day, but it's not over yet. Off we go into town to find out about Santa Rosalia's famous hot dogs!

Gerrit and Joel have a ball burning their school books from the past year.  'The best day of my life!' Gerrit jokingly proclaims.  The evening came complete with graduation certificates to officially end our school year.

Tioga floats peacefully in her resting spot for the next four months.  In the last two weeks, she has been thoroughly cleaned inside and out and striped of everything from sails to running rigging for protection against the sun's harsh rays and summer's strong winds.  Chris has also been to and returned from Tucson, Arizona with a motor home for our next excellent adventure.

With everything loaded, we are ready to roll.  It has been a while since we have traveled via wheels.  We start out at 5 m.p.h. and joke about that being the speed we came down the coast at.   Once underway on the highway, we find 55 m.p.h. real fast!!   We are all very excited for this next leg of our adventure.  Stay tuned...